Where chefs take the lead: Tables to experience this holiday season (and beyond)

MANILA, Philippines – As the year closes, several fine names have quietly taken root — new, some not-so-new but still flying under the radar.

Helmed by notable chefs and skilled kitchen teams, each restaurant carries a clear point of view, anchored by personality, voice, and a sincere vision behind it. These are places that know who they are, what they want to cook, and why.

Whether it’s a fine dining date night in BGC or Marikina, a destination meal outside Metro Manila, or French comfort food in BGC for late-night catch-ups, these tables are worth a reservation this holiday season and into the year ahead.

Leo Sea House

Along a quiet sidewalk in Sto. Niño, Marikina City, Leo Sea House is easy to miss. Once a sari-sari store, the space has been transformed into a humble, seafood-forward fine dining restaurant that feels intentionally small; homey, warm, and quietly confident.

With a chef’s table that seats three to four guests and a small upstairs dining area that fits about three couples, the intimacy of the space reflects the intention of Chef Francis Lacson’s cooking. The 10-seater restaurant recently launched Buon Appetito!, a tasting menu inspired by neo-Italian cuisine, highlighting fresh seafood from Capiz and the rest of Panay Island.

While Lacson is also known as the head chef of Francesco’s in San Juan, known for its cozy Italian comfort food, Leo Sea House is a more innovative but still personal divergence.

“Leo Sea House was inspired by our desire to pay tribute to the fine produce from our hometown,” shared the owner. “We wanted to share the meals we grew up eating: greens, seafood like pinaisan na isda, rice, and fruits, around the dining table,” Lacson said.

For its price point at P2,500+ per head, this stands as one of the more affordable yet satisfyingly filling tasting menus around. It’s upscale without feeling stiff, refined without losing warmth. There’s a sense of community here; each course is prepared freshly in front of guests, like watching a home kitchen at its busiest.

The meal (and palate) opens with bruschetta topped with fermented oysters and parmesan; briny and balanced by the sweetness of the oyster and the sharpness of the cheese. The Seafood Squash Zuppa Velouté, a comforting bowl of delicately sweet buttery squash. The quality of the seafood stands out — tender, sweet, and never overcooked.

The rotola, a handmade pasta with seafood bolognese, tastes like a slow-cooked, meaty ragù made from a grandmother’s recipe; a surprise to remember that there is no ground meat in there.

A granita of wine-poached pear, lemon, and cardamom provides a refreshing pause before the next course: squid pasta ravioli with smoked ricotta and sofritto, and the osso buco-style dish, served with white fish risotto and gremolata, is another hearty yet pescatarian-friendly main.

A former seafarer and hostage survivor, Lacson came to cooking later in life, teaching himself through cookbooks and global travel. At Leo Sea House, every course feels like an application of those life lessons — thoughtfully composed and utilizing a wide range of seafood without straying from the homey Italian flavors Lacson loves. It’s filling without being overindulgent and showy, and worth its price, even for the wine pairing available at P4,000+.

Liyab

One of the newest additions to BGC’s dining scene, Liyab marks Chef Charles Montañez’s boldest and most personal project yet, following the success of Mamacita. Here, he returns to his favorite element: fire.

From the phoenix-shaped utensil holders to the casual but confident presence of the kitchen team behind the open kitchen, everything feels thematically cohesive and sure of itself. There are no barriers between chef and guest. Even when dishes and menu are set aflame tableside, it never feels excessively performative — a reflection of Montañez’s quirky, bold, but deeply rooted and humble cooking.

“Liyab is the kind of fire that wakes you up from the inside,” Montañez shared. “It starts quietly, then grows into purpose, commitment, and renewal.”

Montañez’s menu blends his Latin American influences with Filipino soul, lifted by local produce, many of them native, rare, and hardly spotlighted. Each course feels like part of a larger narrative, theatrical but never at the expense of flavor and heart.

The first course — Bone Broth, Ox Tongue, 15-month Beef Garum, Corn Custard, and Bone Marrow Butter — arrives as a nostalgic homage to the bulalo. A custard made from local corn sits beneath aged beef garum and fried leeks. Tableside, a heated flambadou melts bone marrow butter into clear bone broth, which is poured over the dish.

A calmer, Japanese-inspired progression follows with Botan Ebi served alongside hot prawn tea. The shrimp is paired with miso ice cream and Malagos blue cheese. Beneath it, radish blanched in dalandan ponzu is topped with dalandan kosho and seasonal lanzones. The cold blue cheese sings the loudest, and the delicate warm broth tempers it — a deliberate contrast of temperatures, tastes, and textures.

The BBQ, Squid Ball & Tawilis course is nostalgic and playful; an elevated take on Filipino street food. palate cleanser inspired by Filipino holidays follows: Sampaloc, Nata de Piña, and Christmas Ham — bright tamarind acidity and familiar sugary bites, balanced by savory notes.

The salu-salo main course is the standout, and brings everything together in a hearty, familiar fashion: confit-style pork adobo cooked in a pugon using vinegar alone; beef longganisa made from three cuts of beef and grilled over wood fire; aged market fish grilled in banana leaf; heirloom rice from Negros; and sides of balao-balao, atsara, and santol sa gata. From the side dishes to the mains, there are no misses here; just empty plates.

Desserts lean nostalgic, too — including a childhood-inspired, multitextural, Ice Scramble-inspired icy treat using fresh strawberries, Pop Rocks, marshmallows, toasted milk ice cream, and brownies.

Liyab is fine dining that doesn’t intimidate; Montañez cultivates an atmosphere that is chill yet composed. The beautiful, minimalist space is suited for couples or a group of friends who want to share a culturally exciting experience rooted in identity and passion.

Little Miss Saldo’s

Little Miss Saldo’s is an à la carte, family-style restaurant derived from the original Saldo’s tasting menu private dining experience on the same Tagaytay property. However, Little Miss Saldo’s is proud of its own identity — different, but not disjointed. It offers an array of global cuisines, yet everything feels like it’s served in someone’s home. That, in many ways, perfectly sums up chef Rhea Rizzo.

Everything feels well-arranged, from the space to the food. And for the longest time, Rizzo says she had well-meaning friends asking her, “Rhea, what’s your food? Define it.” After all, nobody wakes up craving “global comfort food.” People usually crave Japanese, Italian, French, or whatnot.

“For the past four years, I kept pushing back on defining it. But then I realized — because of my experiences: being classically French-trained, living in Bangkok, Ubud, and the US on and off for two years, particularly in Napa Valley — that’s what makes me different. So why not embrace it?” she told Rappler.

“I finally said, ‘Can’t I just be good?’ There is an underlying theme here. It’s comforting,” she added. And it’s true: Eating at Little Miss Saldo’s is like eating at the home of a family member who just cooks really well.

Even the name carries weight. “Our last name means wild,” Rhea shared. “I realize now I’ve been hiding behind the name because I didn’t want my own name attached. I’m trying to change that…embracing visibility is a struggle, especially for female chefs.”

Her main influences are French, New American, and Southeast Asian. New American, she explains, is shaped by places like Napa and San Francisco — melting pots where food reflects migration, coastal influences, barbecue, seafood, and constant evolution.

The space follows suit. Inspired by Napa, Sonoma, and the Hudson Valley, it feels artisanal, classy, yet unpretentious, with muted colors and beautiful dried flower arrangements. More than just a new concept, Little Miss Saldo’s marks a creative shift for Rhea — a chance to explore a wider range of ideas and embrace a more spontaneous, uninhibited approach to cooking.

“It’s a format that’s like contemporary dance,” she said. “Free from the rigidity of classical ballet. Not as square or boxed in, but still as beautiful in its freeform.”

The meal opens with a portobello and porcini mushroom velouté, served in teacups — sophisticated in both presentation and taste. It delivers the depth of real mushrooms, with a chewy texture that grounds it, making it feel both refined and comforting. From there, the menu moves from French to Japanese influences: a teriyaki-based ox tongue on a stick, paired with a refreshing wakame salad. It leans Japanese but carries a distinctly Filipino flavor — savory, bold, slightly sweet, and sticky.

Next comes a delicate pan-fried barramundi, with crisp skin and flaky, tender flesh, finished in beurre noisette that’s buttery and silky, lifted by a slight acidity from lemon and accentuated by crispy capers.

Then the flavors shift again, this time toward Asia, with a massaman curry and lamb ribs dish. Rizzo’s delineation between cuisines is abrupt but never jarring; each dish has its own personality and satisfaction.

Dessert brings the meal home: a sticky date pudding that’s moist on the inside, with burnt caramelized notes at the end of each bite; a dark chocolate tart with a crisp shell and a decadent, gooey center; and a honey butter toast made with her expertly baked homemade brioche (her sourdough is a must-try).

Together, they all encapsulate Rizzo’s philosophy — experiment, go a little crazy, divert, and don’t chain yourself to one thing. At Little Miss Saldo’s, Rhea gives herself — and her guests — free rein to follow whatever the heart and stomach call for, always ending on a satisfying note.

It’s a drive worth taking from Metro Manila, especially during the holidays, for dates, family outings, or long, leisurely meals. The lush, verdant property allows you to linger for an hour or two after eating, whether that’s a walk around the foliage or a quiet coffee at the bakery downstairs.

Dr. Wine BGC

After its Poblacion outpost, Dr. Wine opened a second branch in BGC, and it’s not just about the wine. French cuisine is served here in generous, hearty portions, led by executive chef Marc Silvestre from Spain. In the kitchen, he moves coolly and calmly at the pass, plating with precision and restraint, his cooking guided by a deep respect for ingredients.

Originally from L’Escala in Spain’s Costa Brava, Silvestre trained in renowned kitchens such as El Celler de Can Roca and Meadowood in Napa Valley. His cooking blends classic French technique with Spanish influences, anchored in seasonal ingredients and personal memory.

Dr. Wine started in Shanghai with a simple idea: good food and wine should be easy to enjoy and best shared. When it opened in Manila in 2017, that philosophy translated into relaxed, welcoming spaces and a menu rooted in French bistro classics.

The BGC branch can get loud and packed at night, but that’s part of its unpretentious French bistro charm. It never feels empty — always buzzing, upbeat — yet grounded by the straightforward dishes.

The buttery and delicate Confit Cod with Zucchini pairs slow-cooked zucchini velouté — confident in its vegetable flavor — with leeks, crispy garlic, and smoked pimentón d’Espelette. The Pan-seared Foie Gras and Hokkaido Scallops, served with porcini, smoked cauliflower purée, and a 24-month Comté sauce, is indulgent without feeling heavy. The Comté brings a deep, unctuous richness, while the foie gras and scallops come together in a silky, tender balance.

Lighter dishes shine too, like the Amberjack Hamachi Crudo, fermented in a cold tomato consommé with fresh lime and cucumber sun-dried tomato oil. The brightness of the consommé lifts the freshness of the fish, made even more addictive by chili pepper drops that add a punch of spicy sweetness to each bite.

It works well as a palate cleanser before moving on to richer plates, such as the Rigatoni Carbonara, finished with spicy cured Italian ’nduja, chili peppers, egg yolk cream, and Parmigiano Reggiano.

Ambiance aside, Dr. Wine BGC suits holiday occasions that are looser and more casual — friends, relatives visiting from abroad, or nights that lean toward the lounge-bar scene but still call for food beyond bar chow. It’s French cuisine that feels authentic, approachable, and reasonably priced for what it delivers.

Anya Resort Tagaytay

Another destination meal comes from Anya Resort, although this one is best enjoyed with an overnight stay. But if you’re just visiting Tagaytay City, it’s not always about dinner. Weekend brunches can be just as fitting for the holidays.

At Samira by Chele Gonzalez in Anya Resort Tagaytay, led by executive chef Christopher Leaning, weekends take on a slower, gentler pace. Served from 11 am to 2 pm every Saturday and Sunday, the new brunch encourages leisurely dining.

Curated by Chef Chele Gonzalez, the menu covers the essentials without feeling excessive: freshly baked breads, a selection of charcuterie and cheeses, and egg dishes that range from hand-cut bacon eggs Benedict to a spicier Asian crab omelette. It’s got the makings of a savory brunch — the charcoal grill platter of tiger prawns, churrasco, and Anya’s Cumberland sausage is enough to fill up for lunch, completed by desserts like pineapple pavlova, banana waffles, or torija stretch.

“What makes our weekend brunch at Samira special is its sense of comfort and sharing,” said Leaning. “Chef Chele’s menu reflects a balance of creativity and familiarity, dishes that encourage guests to slow down and connect.”

Brunch is served on the second floor of the restaurant, overlooking the pool and the resort’s green, foliage-filled grounds, with Tagaytay’s cool breeze adding to the relaxed experience.

At P2,500 per person, it almost feels like a proper lunch. The bread and bakery basket have mini ciabatta, sourdough rolls, croissants with honey mustard butter, and homemade seasonal fruit jam. The charcuterie and cheese platter includes house-made mortadella, pastrami, lemon ricotta, and manchego.

By the end, it’s more than enough for the price, covering everything you want from a hearty brunch (or an early lunch): quality carbs, protein from eggs, cheese, and deli meats, something sweet to finish, and, of course, coffee, or a leisurely cocktail served tableside.

Yim by The Lind Boracay

There aren’t many Thai restaurants in Boracay, and The Lind clearly saw the gap. Located inside the beachfront resort in Station 1, Yìm brings focused, flavor-forward Thai cooking to the island.

Yìm — meaning “smile” in Thai — presents a relaxed yet assured space, with modern, sophisticated interiors that never feel intimidating. The restaurant is built around sharing, with dishes designed for the center of the table and Asian-inspired cocktails that temper the heat and spice.

The menu is shaped by Siriporn “Chef Joy” Krasae-at, who was born and trained in Thailand. Drawing from both everyday Thai home cooking and professional kitchen experience, she brings an authentic, grounded approach to the food. The menu stays true to how Thai dishes are meant to be cooked and enjoyed, while thoughtfully adapting them to local ingredients.

The 70-seater restaurant offers green curry with coconut milk, eggplant, sweet basil, and chili; rich, fragrant, and comforting. The grilled marinated Australian lamb cutlets with nam jim jiew, star anise, and cinnamon are tender and soft, with just enough spice and warmth. The tom yum — available with prawn or chicken — is slightly sweet, aromatic, and fragrant, with a steady hum of spice from lemongrass, galangal, and chili, and the comforting tang of lime.

The food carries an authentic heat that feels distinctly Thai, but never overpowering. Its homey Thai flavors are presented with refinement. It’s a worthy stop if you’re staying in Station 1 or nearby.

Yìm is open for lunch and dinner from 11 am to 10 pm. – Rappler.com