On Mount Etna In Sicily The Quality Of White Wines Is Soaring

Long known for epic red wines made from Nerello Mascalese and Nerello Cappuccio grapes, the over 400 winemakers clustered on the slopes of Mount Etna in eastern Sicily—largest volcano in continental Europe—are now increasingly producing white wines (primarily from Carricante and Cataratto grapes, but also with Minella Bianca). The tastes can be phenomenal.

Mount Etna is a hotly desired location for winemakers. According to figures from the Etna DOC Wine Consortium, between 2014 and 2024 the number of Mount Etna wine producers leaped from 242 to 474; the acreage of vineyards grew by 73% and the volume of wine produced grew by 117%.

Other figures from the consortium indicate that between 2019 and 2024 the volume of red wine produced (Rosso and Rosso Riserva) increased 3%, while the volume of white wine (Bianco and Bianco Superiore) increased 37%. The overall split during those six years changed from 66% red/34% white to 56% red/44% white.

I spoke with producers to learn more.

Alberto Graci crafts wine on the north side of Mount Etna—about an hour drive inland from Taormina—where rainfall can be significantly higher than on the south side of the volcano.

“Etna was known for reds. I think whites are becoming more important now. They can have sweetness with a salty expression, structure without softness and have acidity but not be acidic wines.”

Michele Faro, owner of Pietradolce on the northern slopes of Etna, shared his thoughts.

“Etna started off with few whites, and now white and reds are about 50/50. I think it will stay at this balance.”

Angelo Silvestro, Hospitality Manage for Pietradolce agreed.

“Nerello Mascalese has reached a golden age. The past seven years have been a time for Carricante—a very interesting variety: complex with minerality and not so many tropicals.”

Antonio Ciccarelli, who works as communications manager for several estates owned by Piccini 1882, including Torre Mora on the northeastern slopes of Mount Etna, shared insights.

“Red wines here used to be 65 %, and white wines 35%. Now—they are side by side. We hope Americans recognize these whites as much as they do Pinot Grigio and Soave wines from other parts of Italy.”

Giacomo Foti Randazzese, owner and winemaker at an eponymous winery on the south slopes of Etna, provided his insight into a benefit of whites.

“Carricante is famous for acidity—which can give longevity to wine. The data of the Etna Wine Consortium tells that there is an inversion of production from red to white. It used to be about 70% of the wine was and 30% was white. Now they are at about 55% for red and 45% for white. In the last five to eight years white grapes began to cost more than red.”

Wines made from Carricante grapes share some similarities with those made from Assyrtiko grapes on the Greek island of Santorini—with notes of honey, lime and salt, although including, on Etna, spearmint in younger wines. Similar to white wines made from the Timorasso grape in the Piedmont Region of Italy, the flavors can develop an almost caramelized richness after just two to four years in bottle.

Yet the expression of white wines can change dramatically because of the difference in microclimates across the range of this sprawling, gorgeous, often smoking volcano.

Francesco Cambria, President of the Etna DOC Wine Consortium and co-owner of Cottanera wines, explained.

“We work to produce high quality wines born from soils of Etna, with characteristics of Etna volcano, but the microclimates are really different from side to side, from contrada to contrada.” [A contrada is a geographically defined micro-zone with unique terroir characteristics.]

Enrico Travaglianti—winemaker at an estate with the same last name, located on the southwestern slopes of Etna, shared thoughts about white wines.

“The pedo-climatic conditions make Etna white wines perfect to be a great wine even after 20 years because of the climate, the rain, the soil and good winemakers. Carricante is the king of white grapes on Etna. Catarratto can give the wine other flavors and sensations Carricante does not have.”

Some of those “other sensations” include floral aromas.

Winemaker Margherita Platania of Tenute Feudo Cavaliere—also on the southwest slopes of Etna—believes red wine will continue to dominate production associated with the volcano.

“White wine is now more popular. But I think it’s just fashionable.”

[Recent tasting notes on over a hundred wines from Mount Etna can be found here at my Vino Voices site.]