The architect who redesigned the steakhouse experience

Though best known for its steaks, Grub by Ahong & Friends has earned a loyal following for its eclectic menu of comfort foods. (Andrea Edmonds @ FMT Lifestyle)

PETALING JAYA: If you live in PJ or anywhere nearby, chances are you’ve heard someone rave about Grub by Ahong & Friends.

The restaurant’s frontage is so unassuming and gives off such a neighbourhood kopitiam vibe that it’s easy to mistake Grub for anything but a reputable steakhouse.

There are no white tablecloths, polished wine glasses, or uniformed waiters gliding between tables. The décor is almost nonexistent.

Yet day after day, diners fill the humble space in Section 17 for one thing: steak.

Behind the restaurant is Yeang Hong Ngui, better known as Ahong. A former architect and runner-up of MasterChef Malaysia’s second season, he traded blueprints for beef and built one of the city’s most beloved dining spots.

“I started cooking to impress myself, and then to impress my friends,” the 43-year-old told FMT Lifestyle.

“I like food that is very simple, the kind that your mum cooks. When you have this kind of food, it not only feeds your body but your soul.”

Former architect Yeang Hong Ngui built Grub around a simple idea: that good steak should be approachable and affordable. (Andrea Edmonds @ FMT Lifestyle)

That philosophy is deeply embedded in Grub’s DNA. From New York strip and beef wellington to spicy beef ramen and fried French quail, the dishes here are prepared with care and attention to detail, while remaining affordable and unpretentious.

Born in Sibu, Sarawak, Yeang grew up in a household where cooking was practically sacred.

His late Cantonese mother was such a passionate cook that nobody else was allowed near the kitchen. “If my dad tried to tapau food or cook, she would flip the table,” he added with a laugh.

Somehow, Yeang only learnt the culinary ropes after leaving home to study in Cardiff, Wales.

Cooking began out of necessity but soon became a passon, with him spending most evenings experimenting with recipes after work.

Eventually, exhausted by long hours, constant deadlines and a heavy smoking habit, he left architecture to pursue cooking full-time.

The popular Beef Wellington combines classic technique with a subtle Asian twist – and it’s sliced tableside. (Andrea Edmonds @ FMT Lifestyle)

The transition was far from smooth. His first venture, a western-style “chap fan” concept at a hospital food court, failed and wiped out his savings.

Instead of returning to architecture, however, he chose to start over.

Today, Grub serves up to 200 diners on busy days, but Yeang remains committed to the idea that shaped the restaurant from the beginning: making steak approachable.

“When I came back, steak was on a pedestal,” he recalled. “You had to dress up, spend a lot of money, and everything felt so serious all the time. I felt it should be more casual.”

Tasting notes

The Beef Wellington is a clear standout. The golden pastry shatters with a satisfying crunch, revealing a juicy medium-rare centre that is beautifully pink and packed with flavour.

A layer of seaweed adds a subtle umami depth, giving the dish an Asian twist.

Plus, have your phones ready – the server slices it tableside!

Priced at under RM100, it is no wonder the delectable NY strip is among Grub’s bestsellers. (Andrea Edmonds @ FMT Lifestyle)

Another highlight is the “jjapaguri” or “ramdon”. Inspired by a memorable scene from the Oscar-winning film “Parasite”, the spicy ramen is coated in a punchy, flavour-packed sauce.

Thick, juicy cuts of beef – either striploin or wagyu – add richness, making it a simple, satisfying and deeply comforting dish.

The New York strip is equally impressive. A well-executed char on the exterior adds smoky complexity, while the medium-rare interior remains succulent and full of flavour.

It is a simple dish done right, allowing the quality of the beef to take centre stage.

And if you’re feeling fancy, order the Sirloin King James, which is ideal for sharing.

House-made desserts such as the sticky toffee pudding (top), chocolate tart and taufufah cheesecake round off the menu on a sweet note. (Andrea Edmonds @ FMT Lifestyle)

Of course, there’s always room for dessert! The chocolate tart is rich and velvety, with orange-infused notes and candied orange peel adding brightness.

The taufufah cheesecake is soft and delicate with a hint of ginger, while the sticky toffee pudding is light, sweet and served with a scoop of ice cream.

With its no-frills atmosphere, reasonably priced meats, and an owner who pours care into every dish, Grub by Ahong & Friends proves that a memorable steakhouse experience doesn’t require white tablecloths or sky-high prices.

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Grub by Ahong & Friends
608, Jalan 17/10,
Seksyen 17,
46400 Petaling Jaya, Selangor

For location, click here.

Business hours: 11am-9.30pm daily

Contact: 014-607 2983