Siargao beyond the surf

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MAGPUPUNGKO Rock Pools — BRONTË H. LACSAMANA

VIEW FROM the Coconut View Deck — BRONTË H. LACSAMANA

MAASIN RIVER — BRONTË H. LACSAMANA

By Brontë H. Lacsamana, Reporter

WHEN people think of Siargao Island, they visualize foreigners flocking to the waves to surf in the day, then crowding the bars, mingling with locals and fellow travelers in the night.

While this image of Siargao is real, there’s actually more to the island than surfing and nightlife.

My first visit to Siargao, as part of sea travel company 2GO’s launch of the Manila-Siargao ferry route, showcased unforgettable natural wonders. From vast forest cover and seaside rock pools to unspoiled rivers and picturesque beaches, the trip only proved that there’s a serene, homey side to tourist destinations like Siargao that glam travelogue snippets on social media fail to capture.

At the port of General Luna, the coastal town that hosts Siargao’s hotspots ranging from beaches to surf to nightlife, we spoke with councilor Bingle Silvosa about the tourists on the island.

“We are recovering from [Typhoon] Odette back in 2021 and the series of typhoons we’ve been through. The entire Philippines is experiencing a slight downturn in tourist arrivals, but I hope by next year we come back stronger and better — not only Siargao, but the rest of the Philippines’ tourist destinations,” he told BusinessWorld.

Mr. Silvosa noted that the island is faring much better than it was three months ago, with more tourists coming from Europe. About 90% of tourist arrivals in Siargao ultimately stay in the municipality of General Luna.

He added that to maintain the island’s natural beauty, the local government is working hard to enforce its rules, such as the strict prohibition of single-use plastics.

“I think we are ready for the influx of tourists,” he said. “Of course we have safety nets in terms of environmental protection.”

ISLAND HOPPING
The mornings of our comfortable, two-night stay at the Rucksack Inn were interrupted by phone alarms indicating that we had to get up early to make the most of the sights. (If there’s a good, non-work-related reason to get up early, this was it!)

Our first stop was Guyam Island, a white-sand islet just a 10-minute motorboat ride from the main port. The crystal-clear waters are nice to wade in, but the real joy of this spot is the bucolic atmosphere. Because it’s so tiny, the only places where you can hang out are a few huts, a quaint bar, and a makeshift basketball court. The best way to while away the time here is to lounge under the shade of the verdant palm trees.

Our next stop, 15 minutes away on boat, was Naked Island, a 200-meter-long sandbar containing zero vegetation, hence the name. Because it’s just a strip of sand in the middle of the ocean, it attracts photographers and people who want to swim in the cool, aquamarine waters.

Our final stop, another 15 minutes away, was Dako Island, the biggest of the three destinations (the word dako means large). This was also where a lunch of grilled seafood was served on banana leaves, also known as a boodle fight. This island was the most scenic of the three, with white-sand beaches and green palm trees, and rock formations at one end with strategically placed huts overlooking the sea for photo opportunities.

With motorboats docked a few steps from the shores of these magnificent beaches, ferrying happy tourists to and from one island to the other, it’s easy to see why Siargao locals are protective of its natural beauty. If there’s one thing to note, the tour guides and boatmen were always alert about keeping trash away from the environment.

COCONUT VIEW DECK
About 17 kilometers (or 25 to 30 minutes) away from General Luna is the Coconut View Deck, or Coconut Plantation View Point. It’s not actually a deck per se, but an elevated roadside stretch overlooking a seemingly endless sea of palm trees.

Because of its location in the middle of Siargao Island, it is an easy stop since the cliffside road connects the popular coastal area and the northern part of the island. Locals say that it offers a lovely view of the sunset, the trees backed by a colorful sky as the sun dips towards the mountains, but we found that the view is just as lovely in the morning.

Here, you can find local photographers who offer a “human drone” service, which is done by asking the tourists to pose with the tree view as a backdrop and then the photographers run back and forth to mimic the aerial movements of a drone. The result is a lively panoramic shot that does kind of look like it was filmed by a drone camera.

MAGPUPUNGKO ROCK POOLS
Located on the eastern coast of Siargao, around an hour from town, the Magpupungko Rock Pools are a series of natural pools that emerge during low tide. The biggest tidal pool, just a short walk away from the main beach, has a massive rock that serves as a cliff-diving spot.

For those who want to lounge around in cool waters, this is the perfect place to do so. Some of the natural pools are shallow enough for kids, while others go down five feet, exactly for adults. The one with the large rock where people dive from goes as deep as 12 feet.

Because the beach is rocky and characterized by reefs and rock formations, it’s best to wear aqua shoes or water shoes to protect your feet, though many visitors simply walk to the area in slippers or sandals and take them off once in the pool.

With clear, aquamarine waters and sun-warmed rocks, this spot is both great for pictures and a relaxing place to unwind. Just don’t come during high tide, because the waves become too large to fully enjoy the spot.

SURF SPOTS
Though our trip was focused more on natural wonders beyond surfing, we were able to glimpse the untamed waves that made Siargao a hit among surfers from all over the world.

Cloud 9, just three minutes or a kilometer away from our hostel, is the heart of the surf scene. The waves attract a lot of surfers, but so does the wooden boardwalk that stretches out over the water for great sunset views and photo opportunities. Cafés and establishments with the fun island vibe make this a popular hangout spot, even for non-surfers.

Pacifico Beach, closer to the northeastern part of the island, is less well known with a more lowkey, chill atmosphere. It’s not as crowded, and the surf is supposedly friendlier for beginners, with vendors selling coconuts across the beach for people who want to lounge and watch the surfers do their thing.

MAASIN RIVER
You wouldn’t think that a random bridge on the roadside with a smattering of souvenir stalls across it would have a small path leading down to a serene riverside. Once there, the surroundings are surprisingly beautiful — lush mangroves lining a clean, calm river, with tourists ferried up and down on its gentle currents.

Maasin River offers a peaceful, 10-to-15-minute boat ride, with only the occasional dog barking or cock crowing interrupting the silence. Usually, only the boatman’s oars dipping into the water can be heard (unless you’re unlucky enough to be there with other groups of tourists shrieking and chattering away in other boats).

The endpoint of the ride is a quaint spring with a few stalls on the embankments. We didn’t get off here and instead rowed all the way back to the starting point, to fully bask in the quiet of a somewhat remote environment.

COCONUT COMBUT
Our final stop in the two-day tour was Coconut Combut, known as Siargao’s first paintball and gel blaster arena. It’s a brand-new attraction, hidden amongst the coconut trees that we glimpsed from the view deck earlier that morning.

Here, visitors can group together and engage in friendly matches in the outdoor arena. Afterwards, they can cool off at the café, which offers coffee and tea lattes and smoothies.

One of the co-owners is a laidback German named Milo, who first came to Siargao a few years back and has since fallen in love with the place.

“We built this for the locals, for people who might be looking for something new to do outside of the usual,” he told the visiting media. “It’s a difficult place to maintain, but it’s really our way of giving back to the community.”

He also runs the Latin American restaurant Cabrones, situated in Rucksack Inn where we were staying. The place hosts events almost nightly, like bingo nights and beer pong.

Rommel Tan-Abing, owner of Rucksack Inn Siargao, told BusinessWorld that it’s part of “the magic of the island” that people are helpful with each other’s businesses, endeavors, and journeys.

“All of us are on the same boat, so we go through the same challenges,” he explained. “For example, things like the fluctuation of electricity and limited internet connectivity are difficulties we all face.”

Throughout the trip, we experienced one power outage, during check-in. Meanwhile, stable internet seemed confined to the hotel or certain spots on the island. Some establishments, like Coconut Combut, offer Starlink internet.

As someone who had been visiting Siargao since 2018 and moved there in 2021, Mr. Tan-Abing said that the island has come a long way, but that its private sector and local government still have a lot to do to maintain responsible tourism growth.

“It’s not just about keeping tourist sites pristine, but also training our guides and workers. We should equip them with skills so that they can share the stories and history of this island,” he said.

Sea travel company 2GO launched its Manila-Siargao route in November. With a total travel time of 29 hours, the weekly service leaves Manila every Monday at 6:30 p.m. and arrives in Siargao at 11:30 p.m. on Tuesday. The ship then proceeds to Butuan and Ozamiz as per its usual route. The return trip departs Siargao every Wednesday at 2:30 a.m. and arrives in Manila at 7:30 a.m. on Friday.