Rajo Laurel explores Filipino identity in ‘Lahi’ couture collection

MANILA, Philippines — Lahi, Filipino for race, characterizes Filipino designer Rajo Laurel’s Malikhaing Pinoy: LAHI, his latest 30-piece couture collection set to debut on January 30, in Bangkok, Thailand.

Laurel, alongside his collaborators Arnel Papa, Tina Maristela-Ocampo, Cholo Ayuyao, Monchét Diokno Olives, and MX Studios by Maxine Santos Tuaño, answers the question: “Who is the Filipino?” but this time on the global runway.

Walking the runway

Many Filipinos are creatives, yet the number of platforms capable of showcasing their creativity internationally is few and far between. Funding, in particular, remains a persistent hurdle. “Before, we had to find sponsors,” Laurel shared with Rappler.

Most of his collections were displayed within the Philippines. His 2017 Tokyo, Japan, showcase, presented during a Philippine embassy celebration, was one of the rare instances in which his work was formally shown abroad. Therefore, the government’s partnership through the Department of Trade and Industry (DTI) represents a structural shift in the local industry. 

In recent years, Bangkok has cemented itself as Southeast Asia’s fashion hub. Bringing LAHI to this stage not only signifies the collection as a contender within the ASEAN creative economy but also places Filipino couture in a regional market that appreciates traditional craft.

“Now, the government is really putting, I guess, the money where their mouth is. And the fact that they’re bringing us all to Thailand, providing opportunities for business and exposure. It’s a start, but I think it’s a beautiful start,” Laurel said.

Debuting in Thailand is more than just a thrill for the LAHI team; it’s also a way for them to observe, first hand, and connect with how their ASEAN neighbors conceptualize and create. Most importantly, it’s a way to showcase what makes Filipino craftsmanship special.

Looking ahead, Laurel hopes this momentum continues. He notes that policy changes, such as tax breaks, could further strengthen the creative community. But for now, his heart is overwhelmed with gratitude for what he sees as the beginning of a long-awaited government commitment to invest in Filipino creatives.

Presenting the collection

LAHI’s 30-piece collection drew inspiration from the islands of Palawan to the highlands of Cordillera — the seven looks presented at the LAHI preview encapsulate a distinct Filipino taste.

Bagong Barong. A modern twist on the national costume reimagines the Barong Tagalog as a layered dimension with a masculine alampay, jute bib, and a raw silk farmer-style pants woven in Bulacan. The look is anchored by a necklace of sterling silver and Filipino jade beads accented with carved ivory feathers, designed by Tina Maristela-Ocampo, and a piña abaniko fan by Monchét Diokno Olives.

The Manileña. A large Barong Tagalog made of abaca silk from Abra, set against Laurel’s doodle skirt derived from his own sketches, “symbolizing the beautiful chaotic energy that is Manila.” The sculptural headpiece is by Cholo Ayuyao, while the exaggerated black pumps are designed and crafted by Maxine Santos Tuaño.

Ugnayan. An archival piece first created in 2007 for Laurel’s 25th anniversary gala. It featured a handwoven braid fashioned into a friendship bracelet, “signifying the ties that bind to our community and culture.”

Datu. A paper shirt made of silk paired with ramie linen trousers, and a malong made from Tnalak woven by the Tboli. The look is accented by a tampipi clutch sourced from Benguet and a giant bead tassel created in Dumaguete. The shoes are a new iteration of the sapatilya, crafted by Maxine Santos Tuaño.

Kadayawan. Built from handwoven straw sourced in Sorsogon, the cropped culottes use a jusi-inspired weaving technique in rayon and silk, crafted in the Ilocos Region. Earrings by Arnel Papa, shell ring from Celestina Maynila of Tina Maristela-Ocampo, and a tassel-trimmed fan with a bell by Casa Mercedes of Monchet Diokno Olives complete the look.

The Mestiza. A modern take on the classic palda, camisa, and blusa ensemble. The look is rendered in black jusi woven and dyed in Iloilo, and the drop-waist skirt is crafted from raw silk and abaca sourced from Abra.

Paradiso. Inspired by pearls and the shimmer of island shores, the look features a nude-illusion gown adorned with capiz shells sourced in Bacolod, paired with an exaggerated raffia clutch from Quiapo, Manila. 

The beautiful Filipino

The aesthetics of beauty vary across cultures, and one of the ways to understand a culture’s sense of beauty is through the eyes of its creators, such as Laurel.

The message he’s announcing to the world is simple yet profound.

“The story [is] that this is the Filipino beauty today, and we are beautiful. Napakaganda nating tao, napakagandang nating kultura, at napakaganda nating heritage (We are a beautiful people, we have a beautiful culture, and we have a beautiful heritage).”

LAHI outrightly rejects the notion that Filipino design must align with global aesthetics to be considered world-class. Ultimately, the collection is an invitation to international audiences.

“Come see and explore the Philippines through a creative lens,” Laurel said – Claire Masbad/Rappler.com

Claire Masbad is a Rappler intern studying AB Communication Arts at De La Salle University.